248 EUROPE AT PLAY As a change from the smart bars I like sometimes to sit outside the cafes, trying to be a real boulevardier, sipping Byrrh, Raphael, Pernod or Mandarin, or sucking other similar syrupy concoctions through straws. Luncheon at Lame, one of the few remaining Parisian restaurants of the older style, where the grande cuisine is supreme, showed Lord Carnarvon (just returned from staying with Lord Derby at Cannes) hurrying off with Vicomte Sebastian Foy to the races at Maisons-Laffitte. He was in a hurry, because he had not hurried over his luncheon: the proprietor of Larue would rightly treat that as sacrilege and an insult to his chef. Another of my favourite luncheon resorts is Prunier's, either "down-town" in the Rue Duphot or "up-west" at Traktir off the Champs-Elysees. In both places you will be sitting over a couple of million bottles of wine, in case you are really thirsty. Try, one day, a light white wine, Chateau de la Lorie, from the vineyard of Count Louis de Saint-Genys: it is a good accompaniment to Pruniefs Be/oxs, Armoricaims* or Mammes, from the oyster family. And I rarely fail, on a visit here, to chalk up my number for a duck at Le Tour d? Argent, or to see how the snails at L'Escargot have progressed after their meals on Burgundian vine-leaves* An afternoon's golf at Saint-Cloud is very enjoyable in fine weather; the two courses are good, and one of them vety good and very difficult* Do not forget that, like the Fontainebleau course, it is closed on Tuesdays, The dub is barely a quarter of an hour away from Paris, and all the way, when pkying tound, you can see the Eiffel Tower and Montmartte hill, much better known by night than by day.